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Besides
the already described Amanah and
Pharpar, the following large rivers have their
sources in the Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon.
I.
Al Azy,
That
is, the bold or the rebellious, is a large river which flows northward from
Lebanon, and its name is, as I am told, partly derived from this circumstance,
since all the other streams have a southern course, and partly because it is a
wild and rapid water course, which tears away all the bridges which people
attempt to throw over it. In ancient times it was called Orontes, but is not
mentioned either in Talmud or the Scriptures. It issues out of a large meadow
called Djord Dudunie, 12 English miles north of Baal-bek, takes a
northerly course, by the town of Chamath (Epiphania), Phamia, and Antiochia,
(Antakia), and falls south of the last into the Mediterranean.
II.
Wady Chasmeia,
That
is, the dividing or separating stream. This river, the ancient Leontes,* takes
its rise south of the city of Baal-bek, flows southwesterly to the lower
plain, Bakaatachtani, in the district of the ancient Beth-Rechob, and
falls into the Mediterranean to the north of Tyre.
*
In some ancient Arabic works, I found a river Nahr Aloud as existing between Zor
and Seide (Zidon), This would place in this position the Eleitherus, which is,
however, not found between Tyre and Zidon, as I shall explain hereafter. But it
appears to me that this is an error of the transcribers, and that it should be
Leond, or the Leontes, the same as the Wady Chasmeia in question, as this is
also known in the Arabic books as Nahr Leond.
III.
Nahr Abraim,
Formerly
Adonis, flows northward of the district Kisruan, and south of Biblos, and falls
there into the Mediterranean.
IV.
The Aleud,
Also
called Nahr al Kubbir, i.e. the Strong or Grand River, formerly Eleutherus,
flows north of Arka (which will be more particularly described hereafter). The
valley of the river forms the most northern boundary of the Lebanon, and extends
from Hams (Epiphania) to the Mediterranean.
V.
The Kelb (Dog River),
Flows
north of Beirut, and takes its name, according to some, from the circumstance
that the Avites formerly dwelt in this district, and had, as their god, the idol
Nibchaz, who is said to have been figured as a dog, according to the authority
of Talmud Sanhedrim, fol. 63a. (See also 2 Kings 17:31.) It had
anciently the name of Licius (Lykos).
VI.
The Tamur, or Al Kadi,
Flows
at a distance of about 12 English miles west of the city Dir al Kamr, situated
between Beirut and Zidon. In winter it increases to such a size that it becomes
a rapid stream, and overflows its banks to a great extent; so that travellers
are often detained on its shores six or eight days, till the water returns to
its former channel.
VII.
The Zabirani,
Is
the last of these streams, and flows 5 English miles south of Zidon.
The
Principal Places and Districts of Lebanon.
It
would lead me too far to give a minute description of all the places in Lebanon
and the country round about it. I will, therefore, only note those which are
mentioned in the Scriptures, Talmud and other authoritative works.
Between
the Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon, there is a large valley, in Arabic, Al
Bakaa, or "The Valley," anciently Coelesyria, or the Chul of Gen. 10:23; it
extends northward up to the neighbourhood of Chams (Epiphania), and southward to
the vicinity of Tyre, near which latter place it is called Bakaa-Tachtani,
i.e. the lower valley.
This
great valley of the Lebanon is the בקעת
הלבנון "the Valley of Lebanon" of Joshua
11:17, and the לבא חמת "the entrance of
Hamath" of Num. 13:21. In speaking of the battle which Joshua fought with the
Canaanites at the Lake of Merom, it is said (Josh. 11:3) "that Jabin sent to
the Canaanite on the east and the west, and to the Amorite, and the Hittite, and
the Perizzite, and the Jebusites in the mountain, and to the Hivite under Hermon
in the land of Mizpeh." Now, according to my view, is here meant the eastern
valley of the Djebl Heish, mentioned above, and now called Heish Shakara; where
is found, at this day, 10 English miles north of Kanitra, the village of Tel
Djube, Hebrew Goba, which is similar in signification to Mizpeh, both meaning a
high place whence an object can be seen at a distance. (Gobi--Gibah is
transformed into the Arabic Djube by changing the Hebrew Gimel into the Arabic
Jim.) The most southern height of the Djebl Heish is called Tel Farash, that is,
Joshua's Mount, because the Arabs call Joshua Farash, probably from the
circumstance that he may have pursued the Canaanitish kings to this point. It is
also said in the chapter cited, in verse 8, that the Israelites pursued their
enemies (westward) as far as Zidon, and (eastward) to the valley of Mizpeh; it
is farther said, in verse 17, that Joshua conquered the country from the Bald
Mountain (Halak), which is in Seir, to Baalgad in the valley of the Lebanon,
under Mount Hermon, which should induce us to assume that Baal-gad is
identical with the present Banias, of which we have already spoken. This
district of Baal-gad was particularly noted for the criminal idolatry
which was at all times practised there. It was there that the idol
Baal-gad, already existing in the time of Joshua, was worshipped as late
as the days of Isaiah (chap. 5:11 ), "Who set a table for the Gad"
(English version, "for that troup," which, however, hardly means anything;
whereas, it is highly significant when taken as the name of a heathen divinity).
It was there, at Dan or Laish, afterwards called Paneas, or Caesarea Philippi,
where the children of Dan set up the image of Micah (Judges 18:31), and where,
at a later period, Jeroboam set up one of the golden calves (1 Kings 12:28) to
mislead Israel to sin. It was there where the image of the cock-idol was
worshipped by the Cutheans in the town of Tarnegola, consecrated to the god
Nergal (2 Kings 17:30; see also Targum Jonathan; Num. 34; likewise Talmud
Yerushalmi, Demai, chap. 2.); and there
it was at last, where in later times, the Grecian idol Pan was worshipped,
whence then the name of the town of Paneas, near which is the cave of Banias, in
which there are stones bearing inscriptions having reference to the worship of
Pan. The more recent name of the time of the crusaders of Belias for Banias, is
founded upon the original appellation of the same Baal-gad (Joshua
11:17).*
*
This vicinity is also probably the site of Baal-Hamon, mentioned in the
Song of Solomon 8:11, where it is not unlikely that the Egyptian idol Amon (see
Jer. 46:23), was worshipped by Pharaoh's daughter, the wife of the Israelitish
King. This idol, the Jupiter Ammon of the Greeks, was worshipped in the city
Diospolis, i.e. Jupiter's town, which the Targumin suppose to be Alexandria,
but which others allege to be Thebes, in Upper Egypt, where are still found the
most remarkable and extensive ruins of idol temples. It is, therefore, probable
that the idolatrous queen transplanted the name of Anion, changed into the
Hebrew Hamon, from Egypt to the country around Lebanon, and hence, then,
Baal-Hamon, the God Amon. Perhaps Baal may also refer to the idol Baal or
Belus.
In
this large plain, between the Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon, there also stood
formerly the celebrated city Heliopolis, consecrated by the Greeks to the
worship of the sun (from Helis, the sun, Polis, town), which is now known as
Baal-bek† (from Baal, Belus, and Bikah, valley). This town is still
famous for its remarkable ruins, which are undisputably the most gigantic in all
Palestine, and are well calculated to influence every beholder with
astonishment. In the remains of the ancient Temple of the Sun can be seen stones
which are 60 feet in length, 12 in thickness, and 12 in height; and the simple
view of these blocks causes a species of awe; as no one can. imagine how human
hands were enabled to erect so wonderful a structure. This colossal building,‡
erected by Solomon, it being undoubtedly the בעלת
Baalath mentioned in the first book of Kings (9:18), was destroyed in the year
5162 (1402), by the conqueror Tamerlane;* and that which resisted his
destructive inroad was overthrown 356 years later, through the terrific
earthquake in the year 5518 (1758), which caused such great devastation in the
plain of Lebanon and the country of Galilee.
† The passage in Tractate Maaseroth, chap. v. § 8,
שום בעל בכי translated
usually (strong) "garlick, which excites tears," appears to me to be only "the garlik of
Baal-bek," the chi being substituted for the k.
‡
According to Josephus (Antiq. viii. book viii., chap. 2), was the Baalath
erected by Solomon in the vicinity of Gezer of Joshua 10:33, not far from Jaffa
on the Mediterranean, in the country of Ephraim. According to this assumption,
it would appear that this town had the origin and derived its name from the same
circumstances as that in the tribe of Dan. (See Joshua 19:44.) But Rabbi
Benjamin of Tudela thinks that the temple of Baal-bek was originally the house
built by Solomon for Pharaoh's daughter in Lebanon. (1 Kings 7:8.)
*
Of which more in the historical part, which see.
Through
a close inquiry, I have succeeded in ascertaining that Mount Lebanon is at
present divided into 16 districts, of which, however, I mean to enumerate those
only which are mentioned in the Talmudic writings, and which are situated south
of the town of Tripoli (Trablus), in the direction of Mount Hor, the northern
extremity of Palestine (Num 34:7); but I intend to devote, in the sequel, a
chapter to the countries which form the northern boundary line of the land of
Israel.
Tripoli,
Or
Trablus† al Sham (Tarpelites of Ezra 4:9), is the Sin of Gen. 10:17, wherefore
Saadiah translates it with Trablision. Even at the present time there is, north
of this city, a village called Al Sini; it is also called, in the Answers of Maharitz,
Sinim (chap 34). Trablus is distant from the sea about 1˝ miles, and the river
Abulalia passes through it. Of our fellow-Israelites there reside at present
only twelve families, although their Synagogue is a large, strong, and massive
building, which would indicate that formerly there must have been here a much
larger congregation. At the time of Rabbi Benjamin of Tudela, the celebrated
traveller, this city was visited by a terrible earthquake, which threw down the
walls of the town and many houses, and buried many inhabitants alive under the
ruins of their dwellings. But in other places, also, the convulsion of nature
was so great, that, as this traveller reports, more than 20,000 human beings
lost their lives in Palestine through this calamity. The same occurrence is
noticed by Rabbi Joseph Hackohen (fol. 22b), that in the year 4930
(1170) there happened a terrific earthquake in the East, through which the city
of Tripoli was overthrown, burying its inhabitants, and that Antiochia also was
nearly totally destroyed by the same calamity.
† In Talmud Yerushalmi Sabb. Chap. 1., is mentioned
that Rabbi Simeon taught in Atrubulis, by which, probably, the present Trablus
is meant.
Southeast
of Trablus is the district Al Danie, where the above-described cedars of Lebanon
are found. West of the highest peak of the Lebanon, Makmal, is the district Art
Akluk, which is probably the writings. (See Negaim, in the
קלקאי Kalkai often mentioned in the Talmudical
writings. (See Negaim, in the beginning of chap. x.; also in Targum Jonathan, to
Numb. 34:8.)
Southwest
of this is the land of the Gibbim (Gebal, Joshua 13:5; 1 Kings 5:32; Ezek.
17:9), called by the Greeks Biblos, now called Djebel. East of this district, on
the above-mentioned river Abraim, is the town of Aphica, which I take to
be the Aphek of Joshua 13:4.
Between
Tripoli and Biblos, on the shore of the sea, is the town of Botrus, of which
Phoenician city Josephus speaks in his Antiq., book viii., chap. 7.
In
the district of Al Shahar is found the village And (probably the village Aimi
mentioned in Talmud Yerushalmi Nedarim, chap. iv., and ibid. end of Yoma).
East
of the town Mar Hana, in the district of Al Shuf, belonging to the territory of
Beirut, is the spring of Achab, in Arabic En Achab (see Parah, chap. viii. §
11), which falls into the river Abraim. In the same district is found the
village Biyuth-athir, doubtlessly a corruption for Biyutar, a city referred to
in Challah, chap. iv. § 10, as Bittar,* and not to be mistaken for the ancient
Bethar, near Jerusalem, not far from Malcha, or the celebrated Bethar not far
from Kaplar Saba (Gittin, fol. 57a).
*
In Talmud Yerushalmi, and in some other old books, I find the passage in
Challah
to state ביותר Beyutar, not Bittar, as we read in
our books.
In
the district of Al Djurd is the town of Batchun; it is not to be mistaken, as no
doubt some have done, for the Betach belonging to the cities of Hadarezer (2
Sam. 8:8).
Two
and a half English miles south of Baal-bek is the village Rabcha, perhaps the
Richpa mentioned in Maaseroth v. § 8, as the Arabs so often transpose the
letters; hence Ripcha, then Rabcha.
Twenty-five
miles southeast of Baal-bek is the village Sachala, where the inhabitants point
out a monument, which they allege to mark the grave of Noah. That, however, but
little faith can be placed in such like popular legends, will appear from the
fact that also in the land of Armenia, in the vicinity of Mount Dshudi (the
Ararat of Gen. 8:4), on which the ark rested at the flood, they also point out
an alleged grave of Noah. But other similar examples can be cited to prove the
credulity of the people in giving currency to unauthenticated legends. So the
grave of Moses is shown south of the town of Hams, near the sea and the village,
where it is, is called Keber Mosheh, Moses' Grave, when it is well known that
the sepulchre of this holy man is east of the Jordan (Deut. 34:6). The grave of
Job is pointed out at Constantinople, also east of the Jordan (see Caphtor
Vapherach, fol. 70 b), again in Armenia, and finally in India, not far
from the Persian boundary line, consequently in four different places.*
*
There is a hint in Targum Echa (Lamentations) to chap. 4:21, that Job should
have lived in Armenia, as עוץ the land of Uz, where Job dwelt,
is given with Armenia.
The
northern part of Lebanon is almost a complete desert and uninhabited, and only
in its southern part are there any settlements, of which, however, agreeably to
my plan, I shall mention the following only.
South
of Djebl Sheich, which is identical with Hermon or the Snow Mountain, is the
district Al Chaspeya, in which is found the city of the same name, mentioned in
Talmud Yerushalmi,—Demai, chapter ii. South of this place, is the river
Chaspeya, called by the Arabs Koroni, which is the source of the Jordan, and
flows to the south of the district of Dan, and unites there with the river Dan
and the Jordan. West of this river, that is to say, 12˝ English miles north of the sea of Merom, is the village Abel (Beth Maacha
2 Sam. 20:14). Near this are the villages Abel al Kamach, and Abel al Krum,†
which latter is not to be mistaken for Abel Keramim of Judges 11:33, which is
the land of Gilead. South of the first Abel, and north of Abel al Kamach, is the
village Zeredah, where the grave of Jose of Zeredah is found. This village also
has the name of Chamas. Not far from this is the village of Barthotha, in which
is the grave of Eliezer of Barthotha. (Aboth i.) Perhaps this is the town of
Beruthi mentioned by Josephus, which I have noticed above.
† The Jewish inhabitants of the town of Chaspeya carry
their dead across the stream to Abel al Krum, because they have a tradition that
the river Chaspeya formed the boundary line of Palestine, and they wish to inter
the dead in the Holy Land. But this boundary line was only so after the return
from Babylon, as I have shown at the proper place above.
The
inhabitants of Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon are mostly Druses; they are called
Philistines by the Jews, who perhaps do this in consonance with some tradition
that the present mountaineers are thus descended. These Druses are under the
government of the Amir Abshir, who resides at Dir al Kamar, a town about 20
English miles northeast of Tyre. The religion of these people consists of a
mixture of Christian and Mahomedan doctrines, and they are much given to
immorality and general looseness of conduct. Their chief occupation consists in
the production of silk and cotton fabrics; and they are also engaged in
agriculture, and their wine especially is very good, and considerable quantities
of cotton wool are likewise produced by them.
The
Lebanon is also inhabited by a Christian sect, called Maronites, who have a
convent in the town of Kanabin, in the district of Al Donie, where their
patriarch, or the chief of their religion, resides. The Maronites are, however,
often persecuted by the Druses, who far exceed them in numbers, and are
occasionally murderously assailed by them. Only a few years back, in the year
5603 (1843) and in 5605 (1845), wars of this nature took place, in which a large
number of Christians lost their lives. These Maronites, as well as the small
Mahomedan population found in the mountains, are, with the Druses, under the
government of the above-mentioned Amir.
In
only three places of Mount Lebanon are Jewish inhabitants found: in Tripoli, as
already stated, twelve families, in Dir Al Kamar eighty families, the heads of
whom are mostly merchants, and in Chaspeya near thirty families. The Jews are
greatly beloved by the Druses, and they are active agriculturists, like the
other inhabitants of the mountains, and noted for their courage and bravery.
Even the girls engaged in tending the flocks go armed with pistols and javelin,
and boldly defend themselves against wild beasts and robbers. About twenty-four
years ago, a Jewish girl of Chaspeya was tending her flock in the field, when a
Turk threatened to do her violence, as she was alone, and no one near to come to
her aid. But she drew forth her pistol and ordered him on pain of death to
desist from his attempt; and as he would not listen to her, she levelled her
weapon and shot him dead on the spot. She was cited to appear before the judges;
and she was not only acquitted of all blame, but much praise was publicly
awarded to her for her intrepidity and courageous behaviour.
In
the year 5591 (1831), when the mountaineers of the district of Sanur (which
see), who occupied the fort of the same name, rebelled against the then Pacha of
Akko (St. Jean D'Acre), Abdalla, and had caused a great slaughter among his
troops, he requested of the Amir to aid him with some of his bravest men to
subdue the rebels. The Amir assented, and sent him about one hundred Jews from
Dir al Kamar and Chaspeya, who, greatly to their renown, reduced the stronghold
of Sanur, which the Pacha thereupon ordered to be levelled to the ground, and it
has remained in this state ever since.
The
Amir is subject to the Sultan of Constantinople, to whom he pays the legal
tribute, that is, when it suits him, for he is nearly independent in his
mountain fastnesses amidst the towering Alps, and he need not fear the armies
which his nominal sovereign might be induced to send against him. In the year
5594 (1834), when the so-called peasant war raged in the Holy Land, and the
Fallahin laid waste the city of Zafed, the Amir came with his army and delivered
the Jews from the power of their enemies; for at that time the Druses Were on
friendly terms with Ibrahim Pacha. Nevertheless, four years later, when the
mountaineers were at war with their former ally, Ibrahim, they suddenly
surprised Zafed, and plundered the Jews residing there. In the progress of the
war, however, they were overcome by the Egyptian Pacha, notwithstanding the
strength of their position, after a prolonged struggle. This occurred in 5598
(1838); and this defeat has greatly reduced their power. (Fuller particulars of
these events will be found in the historical part of this work.) |
